Part of Unexpected Italy: Stories from My Recent Travels
Some places make you feel you ought to arrive with a list. Santa Margherita Ligure did the opposite. I went by car for the day, parked, and let the town set the pace: a walk along the waterfront, a good lunch, a few hours enjoying the pleasures of a seaside place that knows how to look after visitors.
It would be easy to treat Santa Margherita as a stop on the way to Portofino. That would miss the point. Its harbour, streets, cafés and beaches are enough for a full day, especially when the aim is to enjoy where you are rather than collect attractions.
The Drive In and the First Walk
Coming off the A12 at Rapallo, the approach follows the coast through San Michele di Pagana. Even before I reached the centre, the day felt different from a routine drive: the road opened onto the Gulf of Tigullio, with the sea close enough to make me slow down and look.
Once I had parked, I left the car alone. Santa Margherita is best experienced on foot. I began near the waterfront, where fishing boats and larger yachts share the harbour. That mix tells you something about the town. It has the polish of a Riviera resort, but it still has a working connection to the sea.
Lunch Was the Main Event
I hadn’t come to rush between landmarks. I wanted a good meal and the time to enjoy it. In a town like this, lunch deserves a proper pause: seafood if the day’s menu appeals, perhaps pasta with pesto, a glass of local wine if you’re not driving, and no reason to watch the clock beyond the parking meter. For a driver, a long lunch works just as well with water and coffee.
I would choose a place by looking at the menu and where I’d actually like to sit, rather than assuming every waterfront table offers the same experience. The food is part of the outing, but so is everything around it: the conversation at neighbouring tables, people coming in from the beach, and the change in light over the harbour as the afternoon moves on.
A Town That Makes It Easy to Stay
After lunch I wandered through the centre and back toward the sea. Santa Margherita has the useful amenities that make a day trip comfortable: cafés for an unhurried stop, shops to browse, places to sit by the water, and beach areas if the weather invites a swim. You can make a little occasion of the day without arranging much in advance.
For a change of scene, Villa Durazzo sits above the centre in a historic park, with views back toward the coast. I liked having the option of a garden and a short uphill walk, even on a day whose main purpose was simply to enjoy the town. Check the villa’s current visiting information if you want to go inside; the grounds and interior can have different arrangements.
I could have continued toward Portofino, but I was in no hurry to leave. Santa Margherita often gets described by its more famous neighbour. Spending the whole day here makes that comparison feel unnecessary.
Before Driving Home
My last stop was another walk by the water. On a day trip, the temptation is to add one more destination because the car is waiting. This time, the better choice was to stay a little longer, have a coffee, and take one final look at the harbour before setting off.
If you’re coming by car, check parking options and seasonal charges before you leave. The nearest A12 exit is Rapallo, and spaces near the centre can be in demand. Once parked, you can cover this kind of relaxed itinerary on foot. Leave room in the day for lunch, a waterfront walk and whatever makes you want to linger.
Santa Margherita Ligure gave me exactly what I wanted from a day away: good food, the sea, a comfortable town, and the rare pleasure of returning home without feeling that I had missed something.
Book Your Santa Margherita Ligure Stay and Experiences
If one day isn’t enough, compare hotels in Santa Margherita Ligure on Trip.com. For an experience that begins in town, Weekend in Italy’s Portofino Park walk and food experience lists a Santa Margherita meeting point; check its schedule and suitability before booking. Some booking links on Italia Mia may earn us a commission at no extra cost to you.
External Links
Santa Margherita Ligure official tourism: arriving and parking
Villa Durazzo: visits and information
Santa Margherita Ligure official tourism: the harbour
