The Conversation on the Devil’s Bridge: A Day in Garfagnana
On the way to Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, a brief conversation on the Devil’s Bridge became as memorable as our stop for traditional food in town.
Two Days in Bolsena: Between Friends and the Lake
A two-day visit to friends becomes an introduction to Bolsena’s volcanic lake, medieval fortress, Basilica of Santa Cristina and the smaller lakeside towns of Marta and Capodimonte.
Getting Lost in Genoa Was the Best Part
After visiting the Genoa Aquarium with a friend, I followed the old streets toward San Lorenzo and took a wrong turn. What followed—a small shop, a plate of farinata and a local conversation—showed me a Genoa I would have missed on the direct route.
Above the Clouds in the Aosta Valley
Four male friends use Aosta as a base for castles and mountain valleys. In Val Ferret, a sudden July storm forces them into shelter, where food and conversation replace the afternoon itinerary.
Unexpected Italy: A Day in Lecce, the Florence of the South
A day trip to Lecce focused on its cathedral, historic centre, and local specialties, with suggestions for Santa Croce, Roman remains, and a relaxed walking route.
Apella: The Lunigiana Village That Became a Hotel
In the chestnut woods of Lunigiana, Apella has been revived through a scattered-hotel model. Its restored apartments, panoramic pool, bicycles and celebrated La Torre restaurant make the village a destination in itself, with Bagnone close enough for an easy excursion.
Chocolate, Rain and an Unexpected Turin
I arrived in Turin expecting elegance, order and a certain reserve. During two nights with a friend, the Egyptian Museum, the city’s shops and a small market in Piazza Vittorio filled the itinerary. But it was rain, chocolate and an ordinary conversation in a historic café that changed my impression of the city.
The Little Fish That Changed My Swim in Puglia
I expected clear water and good food during five nights on Puglia’s Ionian coast. I did not expect the little fish in the sea to become one of my favorite memories.
Motia: Excavations and the Mystery of a Marble Youth
An excursion to Motia with my friend and guide Salvatore brings together the island’s excavations and Whitaker Museum, from a reinterpreted sacred pool to its celebrated marble youth.
The Sketch That Followed Me Through Pietrasanta
A coastal bike ride becomes an afternoon in Pietrasanta, with aperitivo, a walk among the square’s artworks, and a fictionalized chance encounter that changes the view.
Naples on Foot: From Spaccanapoli to the Quartieri Spagnoli
Arriving in Naples by train, a small group of friends crosses the historic center on foot, visiting famous churches, streets and neighborhoods without forcing the experience into a romantic travel story.
The Stranger Who Changed My Day in Sicily
Sicily, Catania, Pachino, Scicli, Marzamemi, Portopalo di Capo Passero, Isola delle Correnti, Sicily road trip, southern Sicily, travel stories, unexpected Italy
Five Nights Through the Hill Towns of Maremma
A first-person guide to five nights in southern Maremma, from Morellino wine country and Saturnia’s springs to a remarkable painting in Montemerano and the ancient paths below the tuff towns.
The Deer That Met My Eyes Above Lake Garda
I went to a Lake Garda spa retreat with a friend for a relaxing break. In the mountains, an unexpected encounter with a deer gave me a peaceful sensation I had never felt before.
The Night Bologna Became a Concert Hall
I spent three autumn nights at a B&B in Bologna, walking between Piazza Maggiore, Santo Stefano and the university district. The defining moment came after dinner, when four musicians beneath the porticoes turned an ordinary passage into a temporary concert hall.
Music Across Lake Garda
A short drive from Cremona becomes a two-day journey through the towns of southern Lake Garda. After visiting Desenzano and Sirmione, music carried across the old harbor creates the memory that outlasts every planned stop.
The Milan I Found After the Shops Closed
A three-night trip to Milan becomes the final stop before a friend returns to the United States. Beyond the Duomo and fashion district, the city reveals its more personal character after working hours.
Umbria Between Friends and Stone Cities
Traveling through Umbria by car with Cristian, I stayed at UNICA Assisi, shared dinner with friends on a terrace near Perugia, and spent the next day discovering the very different characters of Gubbio and Assisi.
Florence After We Left the Crowds Behind
Cristian and I expected a familiar day among Florence’s famous monuments. The trip became more memorable after we crossed the Arno and found a quieter, working city beyond the heaviest crowds.
Cremona Beyond the Violin: A Walk Through History, Art and Food
Cremona is known throughout the world for Stradivari, but the violin is only the beginning. A visit reveals one of Lombardy’s finest medieval squares, an ambitious frescoed cathedral, the 112-meter Torrazzo, important paintings and the distinctive cooking of the Po Valley.
Rome and I Share the Same Birthday
Rome and I share April 21 as a birthday. During four nights with friends, the Vatican, Forum, Trastevere and intimate trattoria dinners revealed a city whose beauty can overwhelm without ever separating itself from ordinary life.
The Naples We Found Beyond the Grotta di Seiano
A long gallery through the Posillipo hillside led us to one of the most memorable places a local friend showed us in Naples: the ruins of a Roman villa overlooking the coast.
Two Days in Padova: Giotto and the City Beyond the Chapel
A two-day visit to Padova with three friends begins with Giotto’s extraordinary Scrovegni Chapel and continues through arcaded streets, market squares, the university quarter, the Basilica of Saint Anthony and Prato della Valle.
The Beach I Had Almost to Myself
Staying at a friend’s house in Santa Maria Coghinas gave four friends access to the quieter coast between Badesi, Valledoria and Castelsardo. On a nearly empty beach, a sudden change in the wind turned a lazy afternoon into an unexpected encounter with a local fisherman.
The Road Through the Maremma to Saturnia
Three friends leave the Tuscan coast after Follonica, cross the open landscape of the Maremma and stay at Agriturismo Il Torrione before experiencing the thermal pools of Saturnia.
Portovenere: Where the Road Ends at the Gulf of Poets
At the end of Portovenere, the striped Church of San Pietro stands directly above the Ligurian Sea. This personal journey through the Gulf of Poets explores a less hurried alternative to the Cinque Terre, along with the real history and enduring legends of Byron, Shelley and the writers drawn to this coast.
What Happened After I Left the Leaning Tower
After visiting the Leaning Tower, I kept walking through Pisa’s university streets, market square and riverfront—and found the working city hidden in plain sight beyond Piazza dei Miracoli.
A Venetian Memory: Venice, Murano and the Magic of Glass
A nostalgic journey through Venice and Murano with a friend, staying on the Lido, getting lost in Venice, visiting the Cenedese glass foundry, and bringing home two beautiful pieces of Murano glass.
The Day the Marble Mountain Stopped Us
A simple August day trip from the hot Tuscan coast led to cool air at Campocecina, lunch at the Belvedere and an unexpected stop on a working quarry road before I reached Colonnata to buy its famous lardo.
A Day in Verona Beyond the Balcony
A day on foot with two friends reveals a Verona that is more convincing than its romantic reputation: Roman stone, medieval squares, the Adige and the quieter moments between major attractions.
From Viareggio to Fiumalbo: A Day Across the Apennines
A morning on the coast becomes an afternoon in a medieval mountain village on a day trip from Viareggio, through Bagni di Lucca and Abetone, to Fiumalbo.
The Wedding I Was Never Invited To
Four male friends stop in Cisternino during a road trip through Puglia and unexpectedly become guests at a local wedding. What begins with a drink in the square turns into dinner, dancing and a lesson in how hospitality really works.
The Song I Heard on the Walls of Lucca
My grandfather came from Lucca, and every return to the city carries an unexplained sense of recognition. After browsing the men’s clothing shops on Via Fillungo, I climbed to the walls and heard a local guitarist working on a song that did not yet have a name.
Santa Margherita Ligure: A Day That Needed No Itinerary
I drove to Santa Margherita Ligure for a day of good food and time by the sea. The harbour, the centre and a slow afternoon made an itinerary unnecessary.
Unexpected Italy: A Space Age Lamp and a €40,000 Surprise at Parma’s Mercanteinfiera
At Parma’s Mercanteinfiera, I saw familiar faces from Cash or Trash, bargained for a Space Age floor lamp, and badly underestimated a €40,000 painting. Here is what to see, what to buy, and when to walk away.